Train ride and a hot hike in the Pyrenees

6-27-2019
DAY 9

Today, we took a ride on the highest train in Europe. We had to wake up really early to catch the train so we left Broto, Spain by 6:15am. From there, we headed for Artouste, France to take a gondola up to where the train leaves. 

As we looked around at the others boarding the gondola and train, we realized we were surrounded by people of a demographic much older than us. For those who do not know, James has been increasingly resistant to hiking, especially uphill. So, as a compromise between the rest of our family’s enjoyment of hiking and his strong dislike, we decided to take the train up and have an easier hike to Respomuso. In short, James is our “granny” for the train ride.

Before heading off, we noticed some cattle with large bells clanging about their necks grazing off down the track. The bells on animals such as sheep, goats, cows, and horses dot the mountainsides of the Pyrenees. The sound of the bells is amazing. Since we had a little bit of time before the train left (amazingly, my family was early for something), Maya and I headed over to take some pictures.

The train ride started off by disappearing into a tunnel just barely big enough to fit our little train. We are plunged into darkness for a while and enjoyed the rhythm of lights coming in and out of sight as we are cooled by occasional dripping water.

The rest of the ride, we enjoyed a wide variety of wildflowers sprinkled about, and even a few Marmots peeking their heads out of holes.

After about an hour hike up from where the train dropped us off, we arrived at the first hut Refuge de’ Arremoulit to find something for lunch. The hut keeper there did not speak much Spanish or English, but my mom was able to communicate enough to order five omelets for lunch. They were so good!

One other thing we especially enjoyed was the snow we found at many points during our hikes. Despite hiking through snow fields, it was still super hot. In fact, it is the hottest heat wave to hit Spain/France, the pervious high being in 2003. The snow fields were a little nerve wracking to hike across because they are steep and slippery. One poor step could send you sliding down a long ways or you could post hole down into a stream.

The mountains are crazy rugged. We passed through the Col d’Arremoulit which is where the border between France and Spain is. It was pretty cool to hike across the border in the high peaks of the Pyrenees. We have noticed that it is difficult to figure out what language to speak when close to the border. However, because these communities were isolated for so long, there are many people who live right near the border and only speak one language. Once we crossed from France to Spain, everything seemed drier and less green. The wildflowers were still amazing though. We passed some crystal clear blue lakes along the trail – the color is so spectacular. 

The trail continued through a pass and then along a steep cliff until we reached a dam for Lake Respomuso. The hiking was really challenging (and hot) so it was quite a relief when Refugio Respomuso was in sight.

Upon arrival, we saw that there were nude women bathing in the stream next to the hut. Now, that is not something we would see in the States! When you walk in the hut, you take off your shoes and use Croc like shoes for guests to use. It really was a “well appointed Spanish hut” as the guide book described. My dad was able to order a beer on tap! We also ordered a yummy cheese plate. After the beer, my dad fell asleep at the table while we were writing postcards so Maya and James put a postcard on his head for a quick photo that said “I love the Pyrenees” as he slept on.

Dinner was at 8:00, so we had time to hike down to the lake to take a dip. We found some nice rocks for launching ourselves into the clear blue water. It was just what we needed to feel refreshed. 

Back at the hut, we had a filling meal, got ready for bed, and hit the hay in the bunks.